Sunday, June 29, 2008

June 27, 2208 Xian

The day started with a hearty American breakfast and the first OJ on the trip. We each probably drank 2 or 3 glasses each. The ride to the Terra Cotta Soldiers was interesting as Michelle filled us with facts about the Xing (pronounced Chin) Dynasty. She gave us a trick about how to remember all the dynasties, Han (hand), Tang (Tongue). The emperor of the Xing Dynasty was the most evil. He was paranoid about his enemies, which is why he built the Terra Cotta Warriors . 720,000 men built the warriors over 38 years. After they were built he ordered the men to death, to be buried alive so the where about of his tomb would not be revealed, as he wanted his after life to be protected. The same emperor built the Great Wall. He took an elixrer to prolong his life, but ironically, it had mercury in it and caused an early death. The archeologist knows this by soil testing. After his death, the commoners, burned down the warriors, and took their swords. They remained buried until 4 farmers were digging for a well , and found the warriors. 3 of the farmers wanted to keep it a secret, they thought they were ghosts and bad luck. But one Farmer Yan, decided to report it. The highlight of our trip was that Farmer Yan was at the musuem ( his job is to sign the books about the warriors). He signed our books. We bought so many books that he offered to have our picture taken for a 20 RMB (about $12 US). Jim calculated that the significance of having him in a photo and signed books is like meeting the person who founded the Pyramids in Egypt. What is more amazing is that Michelle warned us about his arrogance, he doesn’t let anyone take his pictures AND he doesn’t speak to anyone. When I came back to buy more books I nodded by head to him to thank him and he acknowledge me back.
The entire museum is overwhelming. There is absolutely no way to describe the massiveness of the sites. The warriors have been buried for 2000 years. There are about 3000 uncovered, they estimate 7000 warriors, but the Chinese stretch the truth some because 8 is the lucky number so there are 8000 technically. They are active archeologist sites with work being done on a continuous basis. However removing the soldiers is very slow, because exposure to air, eradicates the original color of the soldiers. The Chinese are waiting for chemical work to improve the excavation. The discovery of the Warriors is considered the greatest archeologist find in the 20th Century. It is one of the 8th wonders of the world ( remember the lucky 8). All this found with just 4 farmers digging for water.
There was only 1 soldier found intact and he is displayed and in museum and has a live guard.
We spent over 4 hours at the museum. Jim and I both bought a large warrior. One for each of the girls. We had fun negotiating. ( I love this part).
Afterwards we went to the Jade Factory and learned all about the quality, used for jewelry or sculptures. There are different colors of jade, apple green the most popular. But we saw lavender jade, which was new to me. Of course we helped the Chinese Economy here too.
Ali and Jim decided to skip the Chinese dancers , (portraying the richness of entertainment during the Tang Dynasty).for our evening entertainment. Probably a good thing because there were dragons and masked dancers. She is not happy about either. Jim and Ali had a square hamburger for dinner and ice cream for dessert.
When we first started the trip, Jim and I thought the girls would take turns rooming in our rooms ( we have 2 rooms- because the beds are so small). But Jim and Ali have been roomies the entire time. Has been really good for their bonding time. And since
M & M have had matching outfits 50% of the time. They don’t plan it, but it works out. They come down to breakfast with white shirts and matching shorts. Today they both had green outfits. It is funny. They call themselves Twiddle Dee and Twiddle Dumb. They are getting along famously and perfect travel companions. Pete- better watch out .. if you don’t want to travel with Marg, she has an alternative.

Friday, June 27, 2008

June 26, 2008 travel day to Xian

Breakfast was quick and on the run. That’s too bad as the hotel restaurant is beautiful with fresh flowers. The room itself is like a woodland, glass canopy ceiling with greenery, bamboo trees and plants.

On the highway to Nanjing where we will board a plane. Long three hour trip past rice fields and farms. Snow explained Chinese farming to us. Security at the airports are tight, due to the Olympics. All airports require a 2 hour check in time. Shanghai, 3 hours.

About the country side farms: The landlords originally owned the land. After the Communist takeover, the government owned the land under a commune system. Socialism aside, the rural areas remained very poor. In 1976, a villager, in the Anhui Province, suggested that instead of jointly owned land, the land could be divided into individual plots as an incentive to produce more. While outlawed at the time, the suggestion was brought forth to the central government and adopted on a trial basis. It proved to be so successful – with a percentage of the food going to the government and for taxes, that, in 1978, the Household Contract Responsibility Program was adopted. In a very short period of time, the rural area has gone from one of poverty to comfort.

We crossed the Yangtze River twice on the ride to the airport. My grandfather on my mother’s side crossed the Yangtze River when he defected Russia, during the Revolution. He was on his way to Shanghai. Even though I am not of Chinese dissent, I have Chinese roots. I am glad.

The flight to Xian (8 Million people pronounced in 2 syllables- She An – the one syllable version means fresh)

Our guide Michelle (beautiful) very fluent in English told us the story of her Grandparents – affluent pre-revolution were reduced to a peasant life and ridiculed by their neighbors. Only 8% of the Chinese are members of the Communist party- and is by choice. Ironically Michelle’s parents became part of the Communist party. There is pressure to become a member, if your boss is a member, as the likelihood of promotion is less if you don’t join.

We learned that the country of China is shaped like a rooster. The throat of China is Beijing, the heart is Xian and the feet Taiwan and Hon island- and the tail is Tibet. Xian is the oldest city in China, walled to protect the emperor, only he was allowed inside at night. The gates used to be closed at night, but now with so much night life the gates remain open.

The industries are technology and textiles with most major companies located here. Historically it has always been the center of commerce for centuries for was the beginning of the silk route, an important trading center, even though located in the center of China. It is also important for Fengshu as 8 rivers flow through the city.

Some Olympic facts: 8 is the number of prosperity and wealth, and since 8 is a lucky number of China, it will begin on 8/08/08 at 8:08pm, presenting itself to the world. Instead of gold, silver and bronze medals, for the 1st time in Olympic history the medals will be jade. 1st place white jade, 2nd green jade, and 3rd is a jade that matches the bronze medal. She believes that the cost of jade will rise after the Olympics because the Chinese are introducing jade to the world.
As we approached the hotel is the “bell tower” but looks like a Pagoda, signals that the gates are open and commerce begins. A similar tower to the right signals the close of the gates at the end of the day.

We are staying at the nicest hotel in Xian, a French hotel, Sofitel, gorgeous luxurious rooms, we are ready for some real pampering.

Poor Kimmie didn’t have much luck today, she is scratching from her 35 bug bites, and the bargain $2 shoes already broke.
Jim is determined to get a massage in every city. Yesterdays massage was interesting as they wanted to massage him in places he preferred they did not.
Ali saved the day this morning, as she had a feeling something was left, went into Kimmie’s and mine room and found the painting we bought in Hefei. Trust your intuition.

We are having a early dumpling dinner as we skipped lunch today.

June 25, 2008 Trip to Bengbu Welfare Center

The evening of the 24th, a choice of a meal was a peasant restaurant or western meal. Western food sounded good. The menu items sounded good, pizza the best, but Chinese pizza has no cheese. As the waitress took the order, items on the menu were unavailable. She explained to our guide, that Western food is very expensive and the restaurant doesn’t supply most items… something we aren’t used to. Repeatedly, items we wanted weren’t available. W e tipped the waitress for her time and opted for McDonalds. The walk thru the streets was a cultural experience. Vendors bringing out racks after racks of clothes and merchandise for sale, crowded, bustling. Stares, crowds gathering around us when we stopped to look. Westerns are even less common than in Hefei.

At Mc Donald’s, Kimmie observed how many young girls look like her. She is used to NO ONE looking like her, but here, so many have the similar features, tall, round faces, similar shaped eyes, skin color. One girl sitting next to us, looked like Raelyn, another like Kiana (both from the same orphanage as Kimmie and adopted at the same time). The weather being cooler, also explained to Kimmie why she has never been comfortable in hot weather. The climate here is similar to California with some humidity. Even with the humidity, it is very pleasant.
We nearly had an international incident. As we walked to the elevators to our hotel rooms, Marguerite was concerned because we had had no fresh fruit or vegetables for dinner. She spotted a table with a Buddha on it with fresh food. She started to walk toward it suggesting we grab a few pieces to take to our room. I stopped her, explaining those are holy offerings, and she stopped cold. We roared in laughter. What a disaster if we didn’t stop her.

Ali was really happy to talk to her friends Anna and Isacc over the internet, not once but twice. She also loves watching women’s volleyball on Chinese tv. Language barrier aside, sports is universal. He is her father’s daughter.

The next morning we woke to the sound of birds, and people doing their morning Tai Chi. There is a beautiful park next door with bridges, creeks, pavilions, walking paths, and tennis courts. As early as 5:30 AM, people were outside exercising. Healthy activity aside, there is a big difference in air quality here too than the other cites we have visited. It is hazy, but not from humidity clouds but from pollution.

Trip to Orphanage blogged by Marguerite and Karen

We left around 9:30 for Kim’s orphanage which was a short 15 minutes away. Unlike Ali’s complex which was Spartan and by itself, we drove into a huge complex with a security guard. Evidently, the orphanage is part of a multitude of government service buildings including old age home, hospital and city government administrative offices.

It was extremely modern in design with well constructed sidewalks, trees and landscaping. To access the orphanage on the upper floors, we needed to pass the old age facilities. Even here, individuals waved, despite the appearance of strange looking foreigners.

We arrived and were escorted to the meeting or reception room. The male director appeared and introduced himself, accompanied by three younger women. He appeared laid back. However, it didn’t take a translator for us to understand who was really in charge – the Assistant Director, a very attractive woman in her 40s who was very much a “take charge” type of person.

The original orphanage, where Kim lived, was torn down a few years ago. Karen showed pictures of Kim’s nanny and was told she retired. However, one woman who remained from the old orphanage d came to see us. She took one look at Kim’s baby picture and remembered Kim and the nanny exactly.

Questioned about the rate of adoption, the director explained that fewer and fewer babies are abandoned because of the economic growth and changes in the attitude toward girls. Girls are now able to take care of themselves ecomiclally, thus able to take care of their parents in aging. Only three children were adopted for the first six months this year. There are an about 150 total children in the orphanage between the ages of a few weeks to 8 years old, .primarily with disabilities. He seem to feel that these children would not be adopted but kept in the system and would be provided schooling, etc. When asked, he said that it was common for adoptive families to return to the orphanage – 20 had made the trip to Bengbu this year alone.

Karen and Jim presented gifts of the UT t-shirts to the directors which they accepted with a smile. As for the jelly bellies, licorice and airplanes, they indicated that we should bring them to hand out to the children. Karen asked if we could bring our cameras and videos to take pictures. Amazingly they said yes. As we took pictures, we showed the children their images on the cameras. They swarmed around us, making peace signs with their fingers, pushing and shoving each other so they could have their pictures taken. Karen wants to email these back to the directors to show the children.

We were then escorted upstairs – first to the baby’s room. Unlike Ali’s orphanage, we were asked not to go into the baby’s room because of fear of infection. With a quick peek, these babies had diapers, but with brown plastic rubber pants over their diapers. The next room were older babies maybe 10 months or older. When I stuck my head in the room, one baby burst out tears and frantically crawling on the other side of the crib. She didn’t go far, because they were roped to the crib. All the babies were sharing cribs in this orphanage. When Jim and Karen got Kimmie, they were told Kimmie and Rae were crib mates. Now we have a visual of what that was like.

We then were taken to the toddler’s to 8 years of age – boys lined up sitting on potties. Some had obvious physical disabilities – some minor like birth marks or crossed eye, some more pronounced such as Down’s syndrome, missing eyes or cerebral palsy. All were so sweet and became very animated when they realized we had candy. Unfortunately, one of the girls received the jalapeƱo jelly belly and came up the nanny with open mouth, fanning her tongue. The older boys were intrigued as Jim put together and flew small airplanes. One had to question why these children would not be adoptable, but then again we weren’t privy to the full health record. One wanted to adopt each and every one. As we left and through kisses, they waived at us and blew us kisses back. Holding back tears was hard. I wonder when the last time these children were treated to candy. The only time they get to leave the orphanage is when there is a festival.

We returned to the meeting room where we were introduced to the Foreign Liaison Director. While the Assistant Director looked very bureaucratic, this official was more friendly with a huge smile. She indicated that she was most grateful and happy to see Kim so healthy and happy. Kim confirmed this by dancing for everyone – beautifully done too much applause.

The Assistant director presented Kimmie and Ali a necklace made by the children, signifying long, happy and healthy life. Then they brought us all bracelets made by the children, including our guide Snow.

We left the orphanage for lunch with the Assistant Director and staff. They hosted at a beautiful revolving restaurant overlooking Bengbu, at least 28 floors up. There was a rich variety of Chinese dishes including delicious dumplings, beef with peppers and fried as well as white rice. Regional beer was offered all around to include several toasts offered by the Ass’t Director. Good beer – the official one of the Olympics.

The conversation at lunch was discussing how Jim and Karen make Chinese culture a part of their family’s life. The theme of their interior design is Chinese, eat Chinese food regularly, keeping in contact with other families who have adopted Chinese girls as well as involvement in Families with Children from China (FCC), which celebrates Chinese culture and traditions.

Jim wanted to find an antique abacus, and had fun bargaining with a shop owner for two. He asked Snow to write abacus in Chinese and proceeded to look for antique shops. He didn’t have to look far. The owner took a look at the note, nodded yes, then began to move furniture around and get on his knees to look in a bottom cabinet. The bargaining began with much good natured banter to and fro. Jim insisted that if he met the owner’s price, he wouldn’t need the abacus because he wouldn’t have any money left to count! Chinese bargain very well so it was the beginning of a very lengthy process. Karen was equally adept when negotiating for several items of jewelry – very effective because the shop owner was becoming visibly exasperated. However, with both Jim and Karen, everyone shook hands at the end.

The shopping area is confined to several streets, one major boulevard which is completely canopied by trees on each side whose branches join hands in the center. The architecture of China appears to date to be either very historic or very contemporary – nearly science fiction. The street lights, for example, looked like inverted clusters of grapes. There are huge contemporary sculptures on the top of buildings and modern interpretive sculptures.

Snow chose the restaurant for our last dinner in Bengbu. We entered flanked by waitresses who stand to greet the diners. We were escorted to an upper private room. Karen ordered for us: chicken soup, rice, potatoes with peppers, bok choy, eggplant, edamane and more. She wisely passed on the menu choices of frog, snake, quail eggs or selecting a turtle from the tank much as we select lobster. The turtles must have known their fate because they weren’t in a good mood – fighting each other!

Conversation at dinner eventually moved to what the girls’ impressions were of the orphanages. The girls found the experience emotionally overwhelming. “Dark” was how Ali described it. But Kim insisted that she was happy they went. Both Ali and Kim enjoyed handing out the candy and Ali, assembling the planes. None of us will forget our time there. Either will we.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

June 25, 2008 Hefei tour and drive to Bengbu

Having time to spend on the internet last night, didn’t get to bed until `12:30, the alarm went off too early at 6:30am. Our breakfast was both Chinese and American; with all you can drink espresso. After 3 for me, I am set to go. The restaurant was on the 26th Floor, and circular in design. While sitting at the table, Margaret turned to Marguerite and said, “Can you feel that? We’re moving!” Marguerite looked panicked as she thought it might be aftershocks from the devastating earthquake of a few weeks ago. But, no – this was simply a rotating restaurant with panoramic views of Hefei. We were all very happy and content.

Hefei‘s population is 7 million. It is a major political center for China. Most officials live and work here. There is a lot of money. This is evident in the type of stores on the street.

A Cartier shop is in our hotel, much more expensive than in the states. The main forms of transportation are motor bikes. The larger cities like Beijing do not allow motor bikes because of the pollution. That is why you see many more bikes in Beijing. The scary parts about the motor bikes are the children who ride between 2 parents on 1 single bike, without helmets. Even babies can be seen on them with the mother holding the baby between herself and the father who is driving. Some kids stand upon the seat…

The Hefei we saw this morning is not the same Hefei 12 years ago. The city has modern buildings, wide streets, and beautiful trees, all well maintained and no visible trash. Our guide Snow, first took us to a lovely and peaceful park. It is now a public park open to everyone for free. It was beautiful with gardens, tree groves, a fishing pond and beautiful lake bordered by pavilions. The temperature was in the 80s without a trace of humidity, a welcome change from what we’ve endured up to this time. The park also had some rides. Jim and I took a manual roller coaster ride of sorts. You peddle in a large circle- speed determined by how fast you peddle. That created quite the scene of onlookers as Jim’s legs were too long, so we were sputtering – stopping then speeding up.

Not only was the park a scenic beauty, but the people were so friendly – from the elderly woman at the park entrance to families with young children, clutching balloons and riding in strollers. An elderly gentleman in a wheel chair with his Army jacket on approached. We thought, given the history of the past few decades, he may be angry at the sight of foreigners. However, he raised his hand and waved. Other children gave the peace sign and allowed pictures to be taken.
We met a mother with two children – a young boy and an older girl. We learned she was 11 years old and asked if we could take her picture with Kimmie. Mom agreed then we showed them the results on the digital camera. Everyone laughed. This isn’t the first time we wished we could speak Chinese so that we could communicate better.

Our 2nd stop was a temple created to honor Lord Bao. He was a government official nearly one thousand years ago, known for his kindness and ethical behavior. He rooted out evil and corruption, treating family, royalty and the poor alike. He established laws of justice. He was a man short in height, but great in his goodness and character. So great was his goodness and influence that he was promoted to the highest courts of the Emperor himself. Tradition has it that the Emperor missed Lord Bao at court and wondered aloud where he was. Lord Bao answered that he had always been in court, but was so short, he was hidden behind larger men. The Emperor then ordered an extra large head dress with a horizontal piece. He decreed that anyone who touched this headdress would be executed. The result was that all of the courtiers gave Lord Bao a wide circle, so that he could be easily seen by the Emperor.
There were two memorial temples – the first with a huge incense burner. A table to the left held multiple size incense candles which could be purchased. Incense burned as we entered and a huge gold plated status of Lord Bao was in the back. To the right and left were large gold plated statues of his body guards. They were there to protect him from the many corrupt officials who resented Lord Bao’s code of ethics and would try to assassinate him. Lord Bao was successful as he lived to the age of 62, an old age by ancient standards.

To the left side of the guards stood the execution devices – three huge machetes hinged in resting bases. On the end of each base was a figure head: dragon, tiger, and dog. The dragon machete was for those criminals who were of royal blood. The tiger killed those officials who abused their power and the dog was for the peasant class. Equal treatment for all!

Tourism is the same the world over. In this area could be found a souvenir shop, one of three on the grounds. We found beautiful bronze statues in the execution room, appropriately made by prisoners and available for sale. We inquired about one – a replica of Lord Bao on horseback on his way for official duties. Very small, delicately cast, but very heavy. We inquired as to price and opportunity to bargain. However, these were government items – firm price. Was interested in obtaining two, but only one was available. As this was a reknowned figure in Kimmie’s birthplace province, it was unanimously decided that Kimmie would get this.
It was here that we experienced again what we’ve encountered since the beginning of our trip – stares, not only at our being a foreign curiosity, but interest in what two Chinese girls were doing with us. Through Snow, questions were asked and answered. Consistently, they ask if Ali and Kimmie speak Chinese. Karen is more determined than ever that they will be provided the opportunity.

Moved through the beautiful surrounding gardens, including the “Pavilion of Uncorruption” – where many older people sit for quiet and meditation. Tradition has it that if one sits there; he or she acquires strength of character. It looks on to a beautiful lake, and car horns notwithstanding, we could hear the birds – very peaceful.

We asked to be taken to the Anhui Hotel, where we stayed and Kimmie was brought to us. Jim remembered a moat behind the hotel with a building behind it that is used to house officials when they come to do business. As we viewed the back of the hotel, in an office, we started chatting with the office staff. As it turned out the person we were talking to was the hotel manager in 1996 when we got Kimmie. We talked about the extremely large chandelier in the front lobby that is no longer there. We reminisced about what Hefei was like and the hotel, took some pictures and said our goodbyes. As we left the lobby, I was taken aback by an older artist displaying and selling his work. We found out he sold his paintings in the hotel in 1996 and we bought one his then. We couldn’t miss the opportunity to buy another, how coincidental, now Kimmie has 2 paintings 12 years apart from the same artist in the same hotel.

We had a wonderful lunch at the same noodle restaurant from last night. We figured out last night’s meal with 4 dishes and 2 beers was only $12… unbelievable. The water we bought for our car ride - 12 bottles of water $1.05

We checked out of the hotel (check out time in China is 2pm) and drove to Bengbu where Kimmie’s orphanage is located. Driving through the other areas of Hefei looked much more like the Hefei Jim and I remembered. No modern buildings, paved streets, new construction. However there were rubbish from knocked downed structures and looks like it is being prepared for new construction. I am fairly confident that even in a few years this area will be changed with new buildings, as the old ones are very run down.

Once out of Hefei, all the land was farming. There was absolutely no commercial equipment. Only small villages with workers in the field hand grooming the crops with their hoes, watering, and weeding. The entire 2 hour drive in the country was all farm land, every piece of soil used for agriculture or housing, no open fields un-used.

Our hotel in Bengbu is very nice. Internet connection is very good. Although I was trying to pay my Macy’s bill online and couldn’t get through. Wonder if there are blocks to some internet sites in China.

We have a 2 hour rest before we go to dinner. Tomorrow is the big day to visit the orphanage.

Thank you all for your emails. I even chatted with my niece Tracey online last night through Gmail. Tonight we have set up an internet phone call with Ali’s friends Anna and Isaac. It will the morning time, as we are 13 hours ahead you (from Central time). Anyone else want to chat with us?
Love to all,
Karen

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

June 24, 2008. Travel day to Hefei

The initial plan was to enjoy the hotel today before leaving for the airport to Hefei. Since no swim last night, we decided to take an am swim. Ali and Jim slept in , Kimmie decided to just read and relax, so M & M and I went for a 7:30am swim. A beautiful water fall in the pool along the Pearl River with tropical gardens and the first birds we have seen or heard. A perfect way to start the day.

Michael met us at 9am for breakfast. He wore his UT T-shirt we had given him. We had a long leisurely American breakfast, and ate almost all the different offerings of French toast, eggs, bacon, pastries, orange juice, fruit and coffee. We took more pictures and before we knew it , it was time to say our goodbyes to Michael and check out of the hotel. So hard to say good bye as we have a special bond with him. He has seen Kimmie grow and change, he is the one who made the match for the adoption with Kimmie. When asked about how he did the match, he said God did it.
The flight to the Hefei only 90 minutes. Marguerite got a little queasy on the plane, but soon passed. Our guide Snow was right there to meet us. Like Maoming, Hefei has changed considerably. New buildings, wider roads. Modern structures, lots of cars and lovely cooler weather, no humidity.

Our hotel is a Holiday Inn, very nice. Much nicer than the Holiday Inns in the states, it is a 5 star. The women here dressed more fashionably. Kimmie, Margaret and I had a fantastic dinner at a noodle house. A waiter helped us order and his English perfect. When complimenting him, he quickly replied that he isn’t Chinese, from the Philippines, we all laughed.

Tomorrow is full day, touring Hefei. Thank you for your emails and prayers. We are having a the time of our life.

June 23, 2008 Travel back to Guangzhou

Yorkee arranged for a somewhat American breakfast. We had fried eggs and pancakes- butter and banana, closely resembling square crepes. Kimmie munched on the vegetable dumplings and sweet potatoes- we skipped the chicken feet today.

Off to the train and yes we go soft sleepers. So comfortable and relaxing. The train compartments has 2 sets of sleeper that are more like bunk beds, with an small isle dividing them. The Banks family shared one, M & M shared the bottom bunks in the next compartment. Ali was lite up. As I was sleeping, the Aunts inquired more about Ali’s feelings and her visit to her orphanage. They asked her if she thought she was going to be left there. She responded emphatically no. More questions lead to her changing the subject but they did discuss what her life would be like if she lived in China. M & M said that her birth mother must have really loved her to leave her in such a public area and take the risk of being jailed for 3 years. Ali agreed. Ali thought she would be very happy, as that would be the life she would know. Yorkee told us that children go to school from 7am-11am, travel home from 11-12 where their parents meet them at home ( leaving their jobs) to give them lunch and have a rest, returning to school from 2pm-5pm. Ali looked at her watch during her conversation with M & M and said she would be on her way home to have lunch if she lived in China, and really liked this schedule. She thought she would like Chinese food and I added that she would probably enjoy seafood which she dislikes. She kept M & M entertained the entire 5 ½ train ride full of energy, laughter, and picture taking. A huge change in her disposition.

The Maoming diet continued with cookies, crackers and I continued to enjoy the Leiche.

The train ride went very fast this time. Before we knew it, we arrived back to Guangzhou, where Anna met us outside the station. Our luggage was gathered and we went to the White Swan Hotel, a five star hotel. Beautiful and well maintained. Jim and I stayed here with Kimmie when we got her. There we lots of families with their newly adopted Chinese girls. We had conversations with several families hearing about their adoption stories. It took us back. I most enjoyed the faces and reactions of Kimmie and Ali, as they got joy looking at the children, and seeing the faces of families so happy to receive their new daughters. The waiting period now is 3 years. Most of the families we spoke with waited at least that long.
We had a great dinner- Cantonese style, was very delicious. Anna gave us Chinese table etiquette, as we have a meal in a few days in the home of a Chinese family and don’t want to have manners that might be offensive.

The hotel has a beautiful swimming pool, a feature I wouldn’t have even thought about using 12 years ago when Kimmie was a baby. All the girls decided to take an evening swim. As we started to leave, we saw Jim in the hallway and he asked that I come toward him as he had a surprise. As I turned the corner, there stood Michael ( our guide when we got Kimmie and have kept in touch with these 12 years- he was with us when we went to Beijing 3 years ago and has been a guest in our home in Austin). I screamed and started to cry as I wasn’t sure if Michael was going to be able to meet us, so this was quite the surprise. As it turned out, he planned his business (he is in charge of adoptions for an agency in China) around our stay in Guangzhou. He took us to do some power shopping… got some great deals ( Eric and Trey – you will be happy). We shopped until 10pm, literally shopping until we dropped.

June 22, 2008 Gaozhou Welfare visit

We met at 8am for an authentic Chinese breakfast. Fruit is not a staple for breakfast, theirs is more like lunch. Meat, vegetables and bread. We tasted delicious dumplings, steamed bread, cake and sweet, rice congee, chicken feet, organs and breads. I was the official taster on everything, then if it tasted good to me the rest of the crew followed suit. Jim had the hardest time, followed by Margaret and Ali. Marguerite and Kimmie and I were the most adventurists.
Maoming has changed unbelievably in the last 10 years. The city is “only” 7 million people. Too small in Chinese terms for an airport, so the only way to get there is by train or car. The main industry is petroleum. The buildings are new, lots of palm trees, wide boulevards, looking more like Miami. Margaret and I were amazed. It isn’t the same city.

During our car ride, Ali sat next to me, her back turned, me rubbing her shoulders, and very quiet. She was taking in the ride. The road side was filled with workers harvesting Leiche a hard shelled melon the size of golf ball, peeled, and only grown in this region. Locals were selling it on the road side one after the other. We saw a truck bed full of chickens- not whole chickens, chicken parts that you would see in the grocery store. It must have been 95 degrees outside, and the chicken completely exposed. UGH…. The FDA would have a hay day with that.
A 40 minute car ride to Gaozhou where the orphanage is located is more economically depressed area, with streets piled with garbage. Actually this looks more like Maoming did 10 years ago. Margaret asked Ali if she was nervous about the visit, she replied “ gee I am hungry”.

We asked to be taken to the original orphanage first where Ali was. It closed in 2001. It is now a condemned building. The director and 2 assistant directors met us there. We took pictures and then followed them back to the new orphanage. The orphanage has 2 parts of it. One side is technical school for computer science and the other is the orphanage. It is very simple in design, somewhat barren but clean open and airy. The director took us into his air conditioned office where we were offered hot tea and Leiche that were freshly picked, with pictures of Chinese children with their foreign parents on the wall. We talked for a long time, lots of questions being patiently answered. I showed the pictures of Ali’s nannies when we got Ali in 1998. To our happy surprise, one of the nannies still worked at the orphanage. (The current director has only been with this orphanage for about 1 year). She was brought in with 2, 3 year olds, the oldest in the orphanage. She remembers Ali’s nanny but didn’t really remember Ali specifically. She smiled to know that Ali is well and healthy. I made arrangements prior to coming, to donate a box of toys and clothes. The packages arrived ahead of time and I requested they wait until we got there to open the boxes. As we opened them we pulled out the toys for the girls to play with. They were very timid… Kimmie and Ali got on the floor to show them how to use them. Needless to say they were overwhelmed. We were in the office for about an hour, cameras and video flashing everywhere. It brought us joy to watch them. Very tempting to take one of them home.

When the official tour began, they requested no cameras. The first stop was the special needs room of about 10 children, mostly with cleft palates and under the age of about 15 months. One child looked so frail and white. Didn’t look like she was going to live very long. Another child was paralyzed in one leg. Margaret being a nurse surmised the birth mother might have had a difficult delivery, as it could be the reason she was paralyzed. The rest of the children looked very healthy, alert, well feed and good color. The Banks family has never see a cleft pallet, so it we were interested and we had lots of questions for Margaret and Marguerite about how this is repaired. The director told us that these children will be easily adopted. The next room was the healthy children. Some babies looked as young as a few weeks. The room had no a/c, but they were covered with blankets and towels- A Chinese way to make sure the children don’t get colds- but they must have been roasting. The diapers looked like pillow cases, freshly washed diapers were being dried outside the hallway. Each baby had a clean diaper.

A set of twin girls, were to be adopted very soon, one baby was getting her family the next day. The only boy in the room got Marguerites’ attention and she began to hold him. At first he wasn’t responsive but after only a few minutes the bonding began. I watched out of the corner of my eye and saw the temptation of Marguerite to want to shower this baby with kisses. I became attached to a baby girl who must have been about 6 months. I gently touched her tummy and she spilled out with laughter. This went on for about 15 minutes. Each time I wiggled her tummy she burst out in giggles. It was really hard to leave her, but I know she will be adopted soon. (My gut feeling and prayer).
The babies are in cribs with no mobiles or toys. Each crib has a hard surface and most of the babies have the bald spot on the back of their head. The rooms were light, sunny and airy. We all commented that the directors show a lot of emotion to the babies, and the nannies were loving and kind. They told us the babies eat rice congee, vegetables and bone marrow was added for added nutrition.

The orphanage holds 150 babies. Right now there are 33s. Traditional believes are giving way to contemporary thinking. The Chinese tradition of boys taking care of the parents is not the modern belief. The daughter’s parents now become a blended part of the boy’s family and girls are more accepted in the more modern cities. So there is a bigger decline in the abandoned babies.

We returned to the office where we were shown the original paper worked and documents. We saw Megan’s and Amy’s (adopted at the same time as Ali) paperwork and took a picture of the page to show them when we get home. Up until then, I thought Ali was abandoned at the police station. This is partially correct. The paper work the director had, showed she was found at Fujian Road and then brought to the police station. He told us he would take us there.

The director offered us gifts of necklaces, a seed grown only in the area- it is to ward off evil spirits. Ali’s Chinese name was already engraved – Gao Xian. Gao is the surname from the region, Xian means strong constitution- very fitting for Ali. The seeds were taken to engrave each of our names and represented to us at lunch. We brought Jelly Bellies, hats from UT and wooden airplanes which Breed and Company donated for us to bring. We thought there might be older children to we offered the jelly Bellies to the nannies.

There is a basketball court and Jim wants to show them Ali’s athletic skills. She shoots a lot of baskets and even though it is the official height (taller than she is used to playing) she nails a lot of baskets. The directors applaud.

On the way to lunch, we were taken to Ali’s finding place, on Fujian Road. The police station was only 1 block away. Perhaps if the police station was open, we might have found more information about her finding, but unfortunately it is a Sunday and closed. . At this point Ali is not very happy. It is extremely hot and humid and she just wants to get in the car and go. So a few minutes later we do after taking pictures.

Lunch was a feast. Good meats, fish, delicious shrimp, pork that no one touched. We even had cokes. We were the first family to visit the orphanage in 2008. (There are only about 2-3 visits from families per year- not a common occurrence). They asked us to each write something in their journal about our visit to the orphanage. Even Kimmie and Ali wrote in the book.

Saying many goodbyes, we headed to the Maoming Mansion, the dumpy hotel Margaret and I stayed 10 years ago. It is even more of a dump and still open but extremely special since that is where we were given Ali.

A local mall had a Wal-Mart. We couldn’t believe it. We shopped the mall; Kimmie got a few shirts, the rest of the crew found some gems at Wal-Mart.

Back to hotel and rested. McDonalds even to me sounded yummy, so that is where we had dinner. Kimmie’s flip flops she brought were falling apart and found beautiful flip flops for a whopping $2.

A McDonald’s hamburger in China is the same, but we ordered a milk shake and got hot chocolate, no milk shakes.

Everywhere we went in Maoming we were starred at. For 2 reasons- one, very few foreigners ever have a reason to go to Maoming. Secondly, westerners with Chinese children… very curious to the locals. At McDonalds- people would stop and look through the window to stare at us, some parents would bring their children by us to show them us. “Look…. White people!” Now we know how minorities feel. A young woman came up to me and said “welcome to our city” and wanted to know where I was from. And she said she was so happy to meet me. Maybe she never met a westerner. Thank goodness for our guide because NO ONE speaks English.

We decided to go the grocery store to get food and water for the return train ride. At 9pm it was packed. At one point Margaret got separated from our group. A Chinese woman tapped her on shoulder and pointed to me because she knew Margaret was lost and knew who she was with.

Kimmie and Ali have been remarkable travelers. No complaints, eating the food (Ali is finding some things she likes), sleeping, just very easy going. We are so blessed.
As the day wore on, Ali’s disposition changed dramatically. She became animated, interested in conversation, sharing her life with her aunts, telling them all about Anna, Isaac her best friends, camp this summer with them and on and on. The pressure was off….

Looking forward to sleeping on the hard surface tonight.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Travel day to Maoming June 21

The plan is to fly into Guangzhou, then take a train to Maoming and follow the same travel as Margaret and I did 10 years ago to get Ali. There are no airports in Maoming, even though it is an industrial city. I wanted Ali to experience how we got here. All good intentions
As easy as our flight was to Shanghai, our travel day started just the opposite. After wolfing down breakfast at 6am for Amy to meet us at 6am, we made it to the Old Shanghai airport (built in the last 10 years) in less than 20 minutes. Bused to the tarmac to the plan, all is good. We sit and sit and sit. No explanation for the delay, 90 minutes passed and we finally take off. No one was upset like they would have been in the states, no one questioned why the delay. As the only westerners on the plane, we followed course. Quite the different response Americans would have had for such a delay. (Including myself). Obedience and cooperation was certainly displayed. We landed in Guangzhou and were suppose to take our luggage for storage to the White Swan Hotel. (President Nixon stayed there when China opened their doors to the US).
Bait and switch begins, patience is tested and I failed miserably, probably because I made all the arrangements and everything untangled. Our guide Anna didn’t have a handle on what needed to be done. We needed to store our luggage because the train to Maoming because the train is very small, so we all down sided our luggage to bare minimum. After speaking to her office several times, Anna found a hotel next to the train station to store our luggage, We had to trust this was okay, no other options, had no prior information about the hotel what so ever.
Then the long brutally hot walk to the train station. I thought I was going to bake. The train station is not safe. Lots of beggars, and pick pockets, you have to walk swift and close together. I was most concerned about Kimmie and Ali. They stayed close and but we were all challenged in staying together, as people push and shove, and Anna kept moving fast ahead of us. I would holler at her to wait and she would but it wouldn’t last long. That added to the stress, as it challenged us to stay together. People so close to you, pushing and shuffling, up long flights of stairs, with our luggage, down long flights of stair, concerned about pick pocketers, keeping Ali and Kimmie close, very very stressful.
Then we get thru all this and Anna informs us we have different seats in the train then I ordered. We were to have sleeping compartments like we did in 1988. Jim through a casket. More stress….BUT after we finally got settled in our tiny seats 3 and 3 facing each other, we made lemonaide out of lemons. The scenery was amazing. As we got out of Guangzhou, the country side changed from buildings to rice patty fields. The housing structures have changed considerably in the last 10 years. New housing replaced by new. Some of the housing were just small shacks, with stick roofs. The girls jaws were dropping. We saw people working in rice patties, with their water buffalo, tiny little towns that were just agricultural.

As the only Westerners on the train, we drew lots of attention. As Jim pulled out his rubix cube to pass the time,several young men gathered around him to watch him solve the puzzle. Ali became an expert in solving the rubix cube, quite the task for an 10 year old. A baby with her mother and grandmother sat next to us. We found out the baby is 10 months old, and they are from Maoming. The mother let me play with the baby, she was so well behaved, in fact there were lots of children on the train, and you wouldn’t even know it, they were perfect travelers. One young women, put her hand on Jim’s and said “ Welcome to to China” in English and struck a small conversation with us, asking about the girls and if they were Chinese. She was so pleasant. Telling us America is beautiful and we replied that China is beautiful.
Since the flight was so delayed, we had no time for lunch. We stopped off at a 7/11 and got snacks and water. Our day of food is the Maoming diet… crackers, and liquid.
We almost missed our stop in to get off the train, as the train was 35 minutes early. We left a bag of Kimmie’s on the train with a book she read, but were lucky that was all, because we were so rush to get through the crowed, standing room only, train compartment.
Yorkee our Maoming guide met us, and quickly explained to us, she got a call from her office about us wanting the sleeping compartment for the train. She made arrangement for that to happened, of course with a monetary upgrade.
Our hotel is fine. The bathrooms are funky. The shower is a corner next to the toilet, no separation. Everything gets wet. No big deal, but different… a hot shower is a hot shower. We all feel fast asleep… a good nights rest.

Friday, June 20, 2008

a little more

For those of you who know about my parent coach Gail Allen, here is some interesting stuff for Gail and I to discuss. When the girls got back from our excursion today, I knocked on Jim's door at the hotel(he and Ali are sharing a room), no answer. An hour later I called the room, still no answer. I got worried... as it was almost 7:30and no sign of them. Then a tap on my door, it was Jim, he had gotten a massage, and Ali was sound asleep. She had only eaten french fries, Jim couldn't get her to eat. She was not happy about going down for dinner, and only ate a few bites of her hamburger. A Chinese burger IS different. She was very needy. She told Jim she isn't looking forward to going to the orphanage. When asked last weekend, she told her adult cousins, Trey and Eric, she isn't looking forward to it either. Jim thinks she is very nervous about going. I am hoping to calm her about it tomorrow. I think she is a bit overwhelmed. Sensory overload. Tomorrow is a big travel day. I have lots of energy bars. Ali was happy when I suggested we pack a couple of freeze dried dinners I bought at REI in anticipation of her dislike of the Chinese food.

I forgot to tell you about the silk factory tour... we actually got silk cocoon. They demonstration the spinning and we pulled a sheet of it. Kimmie, Marguerite, Margaret and I used full strength to pull it. It is much harder than it looks. The sheet looks like the Halloween webbing used to create spider webs.

At the pearl factory they opened an oyster... for Dad- trivia question: how many pearls do you think were in 1 oyster? To all of our surprise 28.

We are all repacked for our train ride. Bed time for me now as it it 10:12pm. We rise at 5am.

Have a good Friday, and I will have a good night's sleep.
Love to you all,
Karen

We are here and shopped till we dropped

We had a non eventful flight to Shanghai. A 15 hour flight doesn't seem that long when you eat, watch tv and read the whole time. Kimmie finished a 700 page book, Ali read, played games and watched 4 movies, Margaret and Marguerite did what I did, and Jim had good intentions of getting some work done, but relaxed, read and played games. Getting through customs was easy and our guide Amy was waiting for us.

It was 4:30pm when we got to our hotel, a five star named Huating Hotel, across the street where soccer will be played at the Olympics. ( the only venue here in Shanghai). With good intentions to go exploring and eat out, we all decided to meet in 1 hour. At 8:30 we woke up and decided to bag dinner and we all slept thru the night.

A combo breakfast of Chinese and American satisfied us all and we were off for Shanghai adventures. Yuan gardens was our first stop dating back to the 1500's. It was so hot and humid, Ali lasted an hour wasn't feeling good and Jim was kind enough to offer take her to the hotel. Amy put them in a cab, and we all continued. Next stop pearl shopping, knock off watches. That really made us hungry!!! An authentic Chinese meal ....so good. Even Margaret liked it.

The Shanghai musuem was amazing. Calligraphy, broze displays, Chinese paintings, Porcelin, all dating 500-1500 B.C. Blows your mind thinking how old Chinese histroy begins. Makes the US look so young. 4 floors of Chinese history. We were really tired after that. BUT... found the energy to do some final shopping at the museum shop ( what a surprise).

Amy is extremely knowledgeable about history, facts, dates. Anything you ask her she knows. She specializes in Shanghai history and culture. Shanghai is much more modern that I expected. They are getting rid of the old building replacing with new- everywhere. The architecture is modern and interesting. We have lots of pictures to share with everyone.

Everywhere we went today people were fancinated by Kimmie. Wanted to know if she spoke Mandrian, and explained to me how important it is for her to learn the language. For her bd Jim and I are giving her the Rosetta stone for learning Chinese.

Now we are packing for our trip to see Ali's orphanage. We leave the hotel at 6:30am tomorrow for a 8:30 flight. We arrive in Guangzhou and then get onto the train to Maoming for a 5 hour train ride to Ali's orphangage Maoming SWI. This is the same train ride Margaret and I took to get Ali 10 years ago. Rual China will be very different than the modern city we just experienced. I am anxious to see how Kimmie and Ali respond to the this.

I am not sure when I will be able to blog again, as I Maoming is not as modern as Shanghai and our hotel will not be as nice. In fact, Margaret and I are dreading the hotel, because the "Maoming Mansion" where we stayed was a real dump. I am hoping we have something nicer.

I am finding I am much more relaxed on this trip than any other trip to China. Having this be my 4th time, I am a "expert" bargainer. I got some really good deals today. I was in charge of the doing the negoitations. It was really fun.

All for now, love to all,
Karen

Monday, June 2, 2008

Alot has changed in the last 6 weeks. We are no longer going to Chengdu for obvious reasons and will be touring Guilan instead. China is very strict on the visa applications. They required hotel confirmation numbers and the Kimmie and Ali's adoptions decrees from China to prove they were born in China. In addition there is a breakout of foot and mouth disease in Anhui and Gao Zhou, the 2 provinces where the orphanages are. BUT we are persevering and moving forward with our plans.

I have ordered toys and clothing for the Gao Zhou orphanage and a digital camera for the Anhui orphanage. They will be shipped and arriving on or near the dates we go. These are our gifts.

Only 2 weeks until our departure!!