Wednesday, June 25, 2008

June 25, 2008 Hefei tour and drive to Bengbu

Having time to spend on the internet last night, didn’t get to bed until `12:30, the alarm went off too early at 6:30am. Our breakfast was both Chinese and American; with all you can drink espresso. After 3 for me, I am set to go. The restaurant was on the 26th Floor, and circular in design. While sitting at the table, Margaret turned to Marguerite and said, “Can you feel that? We’re moving!” Marguerite looked panicked as she thought it might be aftershocks from the devastating earthquake of a few weeks ago. But, no – this was simply a rotating restaurant with panoramic views of Hefei. We were all very happy and content.

Hefei‘s population is 7 million. It is a major political center for China. Most officials live and work here. There is a lot of money. This is evident in the type of stores on the street.

A Cartier shop is in our hotel, much more expensive than in the states. The main forms of transportation are motor bikes. The larger cities like Beijing do not allow motor bikes because of the pollution. That is why you see many more bikes in Beijing. The scary parts about the motor bikes are the children who ride between 2 parents on 1 single bike, without helmets. Even babies can be seen on them with the mother holding the baby between herself and the father who is driving. Some kids stand upon the seat…

The Hefei we saw this morning is not the same Hefei 12 years ago. The city has modern buildings, wide streets, and beautiful trees, all well maintained and no visible trash. Our guide Snow, first took us to a lovely and peaceful park. It is now a public park open to everyone for free. It was beautiful with gardens, tree groves, a fishing pond and beautiful lake bordered by pavilions. The temperature was in the 80s without a trace of humidity, a welcome change from what we’ve endured up to this time. The park also had some rides. Jim and I took a manual roller coaster ride of sorts. You peddle in a large circle- speed determined by how fast you peddle. That created quite the scene of onlookers as Jim’s legs were too long, so we were sputtering – stopping then speeding up.

Not only was the park a scenic beauty, but the people were so friendly – from the elderly woman at the park entrance to families with young children, clutching balloons and riding in strollers. An elderly gentleman in a wheel chair with his Army jacket on approached. We thought, given the history of the past few decades, he may be angry at the sight of foreigners. However, he raised his hand and waved. Other children gave the peace sign and allowed pictures to be taken.
We met a mother with two children – a young boy and an older girl. We learned she was 11 years old and asked if we could take her picture with Kimmie. Mom agreed then we showed them the results on the digital camera. Everyone laughed. This isn’t the first time we wished we could speak Chinese so that we could communicate better.

Our 2nd stop was a temple created to honor Lord Bao. He was a government official nearly one thousand years ago, known for his kindness and ethical behavior. He rooted out evil and corruption, treating family, royalty and the poor alike. He established laws of justice. He was a man short in height, but great in his goodness and character. So great was his goodness and influence that he was promoted to the highest courts of the Emperor himself. Tradition has it that the Emperor missed Lord Bao at court and wondered aloud where he was. Lord Bao answered that he had always been in court, but was so short, he was hidden behind larger men. The Emperor then ordered an extra large head dress with a horizontal piece. He decreed that anyone who touched this headdress would be executed. The result was that all of the courtiers gave Lord Bao a wide circle, so that he could be easily seen by the Emperor.
There were two memorial temples – the first with a huge incense burner. A table to the left held multiple size incense candles which could be purchased. Incense burned as we entered and a huge gold plated status of Lord Bao was in the back. To the right and left were large gold plated statues of his body guards. They were there to protect him from the many corrupt officials who resented Lord Bao’s code of ethics and would try to assassinate him. Lord Bao was successful as he lived to the age of 62, an old age by ancient standards.

To the left side of the guards stood the execution devices – three huge machetes hinged in resting bases. On the end of each base was a figure head: dragon, tiger, and dog. The dragon machete was for those criminals who were of royal blood. The tiger killed those officials who abused their power and the dog was for the peasant class. Equal treatment for all!

Tourism is the same the world over. In this area could be found a souvenir shop, one of three on the grounds. We found beautiful bronze statues in the execution room, appropriately made by prisoners and available for sale. We inquired about one – a replica of Lord Bao on horseback on his way for official duties. Very small, delicately cast, but very heavy. We inquired as to price and opportunity to bargain. However, these were government items – firm price. Was interested in obtaining two, but only one was available. As this was a reknowned figure in Kimmie’s birthplace province, it was unanimously decided that Kimmie would get this.
It was here that we experienced again what we’ve encountered since the beginning of our trip – stares, not only at our being a foreign curiosity, but interest in what two Chinese girls were doing with us. Through Snow, questions were asked and answered. Consistently, they ask if Ali and Kimmie speak Chinese. Karen is more determined than ever that they will be provided the opportunity.

Moved through the beautiful surrounding gardens, including the “Pavilion of Uncorruption” – where many older people sit for quiet and meditation. Tradition has it that if one sits there; he or she acquires strength of character. It looks on to a beautiful lake, and car horns notwithstanding, we could hear the birds – very peaceful.

We asked to be taken to the Anhui Hotel, where we stayed and Kimmie was brought to us. Jim remembered a moat behind the hotel with a building behind it that is used to house officials when they come to do business. As we viewed the back of the hotel, in an office, we started chatting with the office staff. As it turned out the person we were talking to was the hotel manager in 1996 when we got Kimmie. We talked about the extremely large chandelier in the front lobby that is no longer there. We reminisced about what Hefei was like and the hotel, took some pictures and said our goodbyes. As we left the lobby, I was taken aback by an older artist displaying and selling his work. We found out he sold his paintings in the hotel in 1996 and we bought one his then. We couldn’t miss the opportunity to buy another, how coincidental, now Kimmie has 2 paintings 12 years apart from the same artist in the same hotel.

We had a wonderful lunch at the same noodle restaurant from last night. We figured out last night’s meal with 4 dishes and 2 beers was only $12… unbelievable. The water we bought for our car ride - 12 bottles of water $1.05

We checked out of the hotel (check out time in China is 2pm) and drove to Bengbu where Kimmie’s orphanage is located. Driving through the other areas of Hefei looked much more like the Hefei Jim and I remembered. No modern buildings, paved streets, new construction. However there were rubbish from knocked downed structures and looks like it is being prepared for new construction. I am fairly confident that even in a few years this area will be changed with new buildings, as the old ones are very run down.

Once out of Hefei, all the land was farming. There was absolutely no commercial equipment. Only small villages with workers in the field hand grooming the crops with their hoes, watering, and weeding. The entire 2 hour drive in the country was all farm land, every piece of soil used for agriculture or housing, no open fields un-used.

Our hotel in Bengbu is very nice. Internet connection is very good. Although I was trying to pay my Macy’s bill online and couldn’t get through. Wonder if there are blocks to some internet sites in China.

We have a 2 hour rest before we go to dinner. Tomorrow is the big day to visit the orphanage.

Thank you all for your emails. I even chatted with my niece Tracey online last night through Gmail. Tonight we have set up an internet phone call with Ali’s friends Anna and Isaac. It will the morning time, as we are 13 hours ahead you (from Central time). Anyone else want to chat with us?
Love to all,
Karen

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